Purchasing Guide

 With so many different styles and types of windows available on the market, we are often asked by our customers to explain all the differences. This question is not simple to answer, however below we have some guidelines for you to consider in your search for the perfect doors and windows for your home.

If you are reading this page it is already clear that you are interested in a quality window or door product, so we don't need to tell you that wood windows and doors are an up-scale product. However, even within the wooden window and door world there are low-end and high-end products. A BMW still doesn't compare to a Ferrari.

In the guide below, the word door and window are used interchangeably, as quality standards for wood doors are the same as for wood windows.

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Things to Look at: The wood



• What type of wood are the windows or doors made from? What wood is used if a solid paint color is chosen?  Coastal Douglas Fir is a good starting point for painted windows. Be aware of pine, spruce, or other soft species which are used as a cheap alternative when the wood is being covered up. These wood species can be used and do provide good thermal insulation, however they must be impregnated by the manufacturer to protect against fungi/insects/water damage over the lifespan of the product. Do not buy any wood window using these materials that is destined for on-site finishing (which means only the  window parts that visible post-installation are painted and protected). Avoid knots unless desirable for esthetics.
  
• If the wood is an engineered product, is it laminated solid or veneer over a wood core? Engineered components are desireable as they provide stability in the wood. However, these parts need to be built for that reason - not because the manufacturer had scraps laying around they simply wanted to glue up and use. Any veneer less than 0.1" / 2mm on an exterior product is lower quality. Windows should never use a veneer less than 1/4" (6mm) on the exterior face.
  
• Where is the wood sourced from? If the manufacturer doesn't know, this is a red flag for poor supply chain management and quality control.
• Where are the wooden components made? Any wooden components should ideally be made in the same manufacturing facility as the door or window. The next best thing is if the components are made by another company in the same region. Be aware of companies ordering in materials and parts from overseas.
  
• What type of glue is used? A water resistant wood glue should be used.
  
• Where are the windows made? Are the windows imported? From where? Why were they imported?  Wood windows and doors should be made in the region where they are installed. This way, there is a better chance they will be designed for the specific challenges of that region. Additionally, the wood will be acclimatized to the climate in which it will be installed leading to far lower likelihood of problems during the product's lifetime.
• What grade of joinery is used? Look at the corners and other connections. Are there chip-outs? Gaps? Putty? Any wood to wood connection should look clean, straight, and level. Nothing should stand out within reason. Wood is a natural and varying material and high quality wood products are handcrafted. Natural variations or features of the wood are not defects.
  

Things to Look at: The protection

• Can the windows be supplied pre-finished from the manufacturer? Window components finished before assembly is the ultimate in protection. It is the only way to protect all parts of the wood including places you cannot access after assembly. The next best thing is a finish applied at the factory. Wood oxidizes and picks up contamination from the moment production is complete. Therefore, the sooner a finish can be applied to the wood, the better the chance of good adhesion by the finish and protection of the product.
  
• What types of finish are used? Are the finishes water based or solvent? How thick is the film build? A wet film build of 8-12mils is a gold standard - but 3-4wet mils is most commont. If the finisher isn't sure at all, look elsewhere. All top or clear coats should be spray-applied with a light sanding between coats.
  
• What brand of finish is used? If the products are easily available to the general public or at the local hardware store, be wary. High-quality products are sourced internationally and are not available through regular big-box or local hardware stores. Ask about what products are compatible with the manufactures original finish for future maintenance requirements, or if the original finish is available for purchase through the manufacturer.
  
• How long is the warranty on the finish? Many companies will finish your products, but offer no warranty with it. Look for a minimum of 1 year on wood coatings, and 10 years on metal cladding.
  
• What is the expected maintenance schedule and how much work is needed to refinish the door? A quality exterior wood finish should last 5-10 years without maintenance depending on the climate and environment it is installed into. When the time comes for fresh topcoat, it is important to consider whether the door need to be sanded down and removed or can be refinished on site while still installed in the frame. It is more convenient for both the customer and the manufacturer if the door can be refinished on site rather than removed. High-quality manufacturers will design doors and use products with this in mind. This isn't to be confused with re-finishing doors on site just because someone "can" or "has" or "will" to cut costs.
  
• Is aluminum cladding offset from the surface of the wood? This is important for increased thermal performance and to allow ventilation for moisture that gets behind. No matter the design, moisture will get into all places of a window. The critical thing is to ensure the window is designed to handle this when it happens. Also check if the wood behind the cladding is finished to the same standard as if there was no aluminum over top and the rest of the window.
  
• How serviceable is the unit? I.e. if the glass breaks, how easy is it to replace the glass? Make sure the glass can be popped out without damaging the unit and hardware parts can be easily swapped out. Also consider the maintenance of the hardware and whether parts that need to be oiled or greased are easy to access.

Things to Look at:
The performance

• Are thermal ratings available for the window or door? What is the U-value? A U value between 0.8 and 1.6 is very good for a window. It is a metric measure of heat loss in the unit  W/m2 C. A lower value is better and any U value above 2.0 should be questioned. There are several different units and uses for the term u value ( often used with the term r value or rating) so if you see a U rating around 0.05 or 0.3 this is measuring a different thing or using a different unit. Very few windows exist worldwide with a metric U value below 0.8. Wood doors generally don't have a thermal rating when less than 2-1/4" thick. Due to glass being a better insulator than wood, and doors being made up of mostly wood in hundreds of configurations, thermal values are hard to measure and are accepted to be above U=2.0 without added insulation.
• Does the manufacturer mention thermal performance at all when talking about their design? A good manufacturer will highlight the thermal performance of the product they make because they considered it as a priority in their product design.
• What type of glass is used? What is the overall thickness? At a minimum, a low-e glass should be used on the interior pane. Dual low-e panes are even better, but will darken the glass. A minimum overall thickness of 3/4" is what you should expect in a high-quality product.  The glass should not be less than 4mm thick on any pane.
• What NAFS ratings does the unit have? Windows should have a PG of 40 or higher. Doors should be 30 or 35 and higher.
  
• If water makes it past  the weatherstripping or gasket, where will it flow to? Can it drain out or will it pool and flow into the house? High quality products will provide the best protection from leaks however highest quality products are designed to ensure in the unlikely event of a leak, the water will be routed appropriately and not enter the home or damage the wood or hardware of the product.
• Are there any flat spots for water to pool on? This will prematurely wear the finish and can lead to wet wood which is a bad thing for stability, and especially fungal attack (rot).

Peace of Mind:
The support

• How willing is the manufacturer to provide support should there be any issues? It shouldn't be a hassle or a big deal. A good manufacturer will stand by their product and ensure any issues are resolved quickly and completely.
• How many parties are involved with getting the windows from raw material to installation? Be wary of windows and doors that different groups are involved in each step from manufacturing, finishing, supplying hardware, installing, and finishing trim work. You can imagine the finger pointing game and hassle with trying to resolve warranty work or issues with this many hands on your doors.
• What warranty do the windows or doors come with?  One year should be the minimum warranty provided for finishing and wood/structure/stability. Look for 2+ years on hardware and 10+ years on aluminum cladding.
• How do you make a warranty claim? It should be straightforward to work with the manufacturer or supplier to make and resolve a claim.
• Is the manufacturer available to answer any questions? Good manufacturers will provide contact details and be available for their customers when questions arise.
• Can you customize the windows or doors to make them your own? Manufacturers should be able to adapt designs or create custom designs for unique and challenging homes and spaces to suit their customers' needs.
• Are you able to visit the shop making your products? Transparency is key when it comes to manufacturing facilities. If a manufacturer is wary about showing a paying customer their shop, it raises red flags as to what they are afraid the customer may see.